Part 1: How Much Audi Does $200 US Buy You?

Greetings readers, viewers, listeners and watchers! Today on Garage Time with Forge, we look at the riveting process of reverse screwing before completing a head job.

DISCLAIMER: I am a dude in a garage. I am sponsored by nobody. I use what I have and it might not be the best methodology or tools. Also there will be mindless branding. apologies for all companies represented.


First things first, while removing the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head I broke 2 studs in the head and had to remove them. This is akin to major surgery on a cylinder head. The studs broke off in the head with nothing to grab onto to remove them with other tools.

Culprit #1


Who does number 2 work for?

So, since there are threads to worry about and I am also drilling into a hardened steel surrounded by soft aluminium, I whip out the trusty reverse thread drill-a-hole-and-hope-it-comes-out set

reverse thread drill-a-hole-and-hope-it-comes-out set


Weapon of choice? Number 2.

So I start by center punching a divot into the center of each stud so the drill bit has a place to ride before it gets too bored and starts chewing away at the bolt underneath it. This is so the bit does not wander away from the center to damage threads. Next, LUBE!

observe the humble Redstrawus Lubricateus in its natural habitat.


Used in the Lube process was a simple quick shot of WD to act as a cutting oil and cooling agent for the next step, DRILLIN!

I legitimately worried about this as I had, up to this point in my life, never even attempted anything of this magnitude (read = delicacy). The real key is to have patience and use a slow speed on your drill. High speed introduces heat and will do nothing but dull your bit and cause mistakes and frustration.


Low speed, steady even medium pressure and patience.


Using a small magnetic pick up tool (available at your local auto parts store for around a dollar) to periodically remove shavings and inspect your work.


After about 15 minutes of drilling I had a hole deep enough to start my bolt extractor.

A hole in a hole!

So I started the extractor by hand and when I couldn’t tern-it-nah-moor I used my set of trusty Chinese locking pliers as a turn handle.


To remove broken studs turn, turn, turn...

I pushed on the bit with my free hand with the same pressure used on the drill to assist in contact with the stud. Remember: Lefty-Loosey!


The Slippery, The Screwy, and The Penetrator all stand above their conquest.


Rinse, Lather Repeat on the other stud aaaaaannnnnddd.....

The day is mine Trebek!

So overall including breaks, screaming bouts of mild insanity, fighting off mutant rampages of radioactive badgers and dealing with the logistics of proper operation of the international space station, this whole operation took about 2 hours. Mostly due to careful planning and thought on my part. I’m thrilled to have these studs removed without further damage to the head. Next step is to track down a OHC adapter for my valve spring compressor and rebuild the head using new seals and slap it back on the engine and find an exhaust manifold and down pipe and do some wire loom detective work and sort out the fuel system and add fluids and reinstall the interior and fire it up and drive it! Simple!